Valentino 2017秋／冬系列
图片来源：INDIGITAL
一本正经与流行真的可以合二为一吗？是的！于是我们看到了生动鲜艳、甜美且后现代风格的粉色维多利亚斗篷，并且下面搭配着有斑斓几何图案印花的连身裙，令人想起曾经的“孟菲斯风格”（Memphis）时代。
Valentino将1880年代与1980年代结合，打造出了令人感佩的美物，而设计师Pierpaolo Piccioli虽然并未迎合弥漫在本次2017秋／冬一季的女权主义风潮，却还是创造出了既尊重女性、又充满欢乐气氛的系列。
Valentino 2017秋／冬系列
图片来源：NDIGITAL
仅仅是观看设计师的四块情绪板就如同上了一堂历史课，Pierpaolo带我瞬间完成穿越，将黑暗的维多利亚时代禽鸟雕刻、明快的孟菲斯家居设计、以及与美杜莎有巧妙宗教关联的珊瑚制品等等丰富的过往元素一次看尽，融汇到了一个系列之中。
Valentino 2017秋／冬系列
图片来源：INDIGITAL
而到了伸展台上，展示效果却并没有过度堆砌之感，历史感浓重的珊瑚被浓缩成每位模特佩戴的项链，而那廓形纤瘦、高腰、盛行裙撑的维多利亚时代则完美地化身21世纪的浪漫视角，接受起来毫无难度和过时感。
Valentino 2017秋／冬系列
图片来源：INDIGITAL
“我想为服装形态的现代感注入深度与浪漫，于是就有了这些完全可以单独穿用的单品：白衬衫或者半裙都可以用你自己的毛衫来搭配，”Pierpaolo说道。“我认为时装就是为梦而生的，但有时你总会需要可以回归日常的美梦。”
一切的核心便藏在Valentino工作室中，从其举重若轻的造型搭配上便可见一斑，在小腿长度的西装大衣搭配维多利亚风格短靴的外表下，内搭却是轻盈柔软的连身裙在飘摆。其精致的细节如同高定系列的延伸，而设计师则热切地指出，这些服装都出自专与Valentino合作的意大利工厂。
Valentino 2017秋／冬系列
图片来源：INDIGITAL
不论在视觉上将袖子上带有细小荷叶褶边的冰沙粉色上装与樱桃色镶边半裙混淆起来是否真的那么容易，其视觉效果都是惊人的宁静平和。即便是点缀着孟菲斯风格流行图案的连身裙，款式也是更为简约的百褶款。而正当你认为这场秀太过于浪漫时，设计师则会恰到好处地穿插进一款黑色上装搭配肥大丝绒长裤的造型，或者是用孟菲斯图案的印花连身裙搭配西装大衣来平衡出一丝宁静感。而其中一款风格严肃的黑色外套则可与衣柜里一切现有的服装搭配，从小黑裙到蓝色牛仔裤都不会违和。而西装裁剪的大衣则在格纹之中保存着一份成熟的女性魅力。
Valentino 2017秋／冬系列
图片来源：INDIGITAL
“对我而言，保有轻盈感十分必要，否则便无法令人感到自信，而自信心没了，你便无法感受到自己的美了，”Pierpaolo如是说。“我认为如果你自信满满，即便在你展现自己感性一面的时候，也会发自内心地觉得自己更强大。”
不论你如何评价这些服装，是太花俏了、装饰太多了、还是太古板了……都无法否认Pierpaolo营造了一种尊重女性、并令她们更美丽的愿景。在全球政局变乱不安的背景下，Valentino仍旧发出了音量虽微、却令人深感平和的声音。
Valentino Autumn/Winter 2017.
Indigital
Prudishness and pop - can the two really meld together? Yes! If the Victorian-style cape is in a vivid, sugary, postmodern pink and the dress underneath a colourful geometric pattern, recalling the Memphis era.
At Valentino, the 1880s met the 1980s with sensational results as designer Pierpaolo Piccioli dismissed the feminist vibe that has reverberated through the Autumn/Winter 2017 season yet created a collection that was respectful to, and joyful for, women.
Valentino Autumn/Winter 2017.
Indigital
Just looking at the designer's four moodboards was a history lesson, as Pierpaolo whizzed me through dark Victorian carved birds, bright Memphis furniture, coral with a religious connection to Medusa - so much from the past crammed into one collection.
Valentino Autumn/Winter 2017.
Indigital
Yet on the runway, the result was far from overloaded, as the history of coral was subsumed into the necklaces all the models wore and the deflated Victorian silhouette - long and high waisted, but slim where a crinoline once was, seemed perfectly acceptable as a romantic vision of the 21st century.
Valentino Autumn/Winter 2017.
Indigital
"I wanted to add deepness and romanticism to the modernity of the shapes, so these are absolutely items that you can wear separately - a white shirt or the skirt with your own sweater," said Pierpaolo. "I think fashion is made for dreams, but sometimes you want a dream that is daywear."
The Valentino studios are at the heart of the matter, apparently finding it as easy to toss off a tailored coat with a mid-calf hemline nudging Victoriana bootees, as it is to make a soft, light dress to flow underneath. The detail and delicacy of the dresses seemed like an extension of the haute couture, but the designer was eager to point out that the clothes came from the Italian factory dedicated to Valentino.
Valentino Autumn/Winter 2017.
Indigital
Whether it is so easy visually to mix a sorbet pink top with tiny ruffles down the arms that flowed into a cherry ripe panelled skirt, the result was surprisingly calm. Even the dresses patterned with Memphis pop blended in with the plainer, pleated versions. And just when you thought that the show's high romance was over blown, the designer would slip in a black top over a pair of sloppy velvet trousers or calm a Memphis patterned dress with a tailored coat. A severe black jacket could be worn with anything already in the closet from an LBD to blue jeans. Like the tailored coats, it kept ripe femininity in check.
Valentino Autumn/Winter 2017.
Indigital
"For me it is important to keep the lightness, otherwise it doesn’t feel confident and if you don’t feel that you don’t feel beautiful," said Pierpaolo. "I think if you feel confident you can even be able to show your sensibility and really feel stronger."
However you rated the clothes - too fancy, too froufrou, too historical - there is no denying that Pierpaolo has created a vision that is respectful to women and which makes them beautiful. In a churning political universe, Valentino offers a small, still voice of calm.
