Jacquemus 2017秋／冬系列
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那种卖弄风骚而又端庄娴熟的巴黎风情，如今已湮灭在颓废摇滚与运动风潮之中……现在她们能否真的重返时装世界？
在巴黎时装周登场的三位设计师，以各自不同的方式呈现了属于21世纪的法式优美风尚：整洁洗练的服装、清新鲜活的造型以及完整统一的风格，令“休闲”服装平添率性与随意。
Olivier Theyskens的审慎魅力
Olivier Theyskens2017秋／冬系列
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首先登场的是Olivier Theyskens廓形优雅利落的系列，从一丝不苟的严肃风格之中可见一丝维多利亚时代的端庄，而其中还夹杂着令人回想其事业初期的清纯甜美小黑裙造型。经历了最初的发端期，Olivier Theyskens便在Rochas设计师任上到达了事业巅峰，并随后在美国品牌Theory遭遇低谷，而现在顺利度过低潮期的他已经渐入佳境。
Olivier Theyskens 2017秋／冬系列
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此次秀场选址在Le Train Bleu餐厅中，这座历史悠久、坐落于法国南部的巴黎火车站中的餐厅，其内部装潢绚丽而多彩，Theyskens表示服装中大量黑色的运用，与绚烂的背景环境形成了鲜明对照。不过他真正想说的，恐怕是紧贴身体曲线的黑色皮革战壕风衣才是最时髦性感的装扮，要么是短及大腿的小黑裙，裙摆所及之处，要刚好让戴着黑色长手套的纤长指尖触及才行。
Olivier Theyskens 2017秋／冬系列
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Theyskens正是巴黎风情的化身：领口处嵌入的黑色蕾丝，优雅的尖头皮鞋令人想起正当绝色之年的Catherine Deneuve，而在松绿色调中加入一点点的明黄，则巧妙地逗出了苦艾酒般的色泽。唯独缺失了一点，便是设计师拿手的那款、裙裾宛如散入空气中的烟雾一般轻灵的长款晚礼服。不过既然他已经回归巴黎时装的正轨，再现这一幕想必不会远了。
Koché：脚踏实地的精致
位于巴黎的“女神游乐厅”（Folies Bergère）自从Édouard Manet活跃画坛以及JosephineBaker的“香蕉裙”流行的年代便已闻名，但似乎不太可能被选作Koché的秀场。作为初出茅庐羽翼渐丰的品牌，设计师ChristelleKocher为品牌定下的基调便是既有酷酷的街头风格，又不失精致的制造工艺。
Koché 2017秋／冬系列
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随着模特们步下铺着地毯的宏伟阶梯，这一特点便已不言自明，而其中一款蓬松派克大衣的高科技塑化表面材质下，还能看到一团团的绚烂羽毛……而这只是街头风格与高级细节水乳交融的例证其一。
Koché 2017秋／冬系列
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秀场选址的这座剧场至今仍有衣着简省但装点着簇簇弓形羽饰的女性进行演出，这一点倒是暗合了Kocher的本职工作，即在隶属于Chanel旗下高级配饰公司Paraffection的羽毛制品工作室Lemarié担任艺术总监一职。而设计师本人在秀场后台向我展示了她手下诞生的第一双珠光宝气的鞋履，是她与Chanel旗下的专业珠宝配饰品牌Goossens以及鞋履品牌Massaro合作设计的。
“我想要体现街头风与奇幻感之间的对比，”Kocher如是说。
年轻一代的法国设计师似乎对高级定制有着与生俱来的理解，且不受敬畏之心的阻碍。是以在男女装设计方面均有涉猎的Kocher会用条纹运动衫搭配时髦靓丽的丝质百褶裙；或用西装剪裁、款式严谨、羽毛镶边的大衣搭配松垮的运动裤与球鞋。
Koché 2017秋／冬系列
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在风格与功能性的融合之中，浮现的是艺术性。并且这戏剧化十足的布景更加强了Koché乃是可造之材的期待。
Jacquemus：深邃之美
Jacquemus确实是有真材实料的。更确切地说，品牌背后的主脑SimonPorte Jacquemus可谓法式时装精神的化身，在其他国家不可能找到这样的存在。继他在早期作品中以撕毁的服装与蕴涵其中的愤怒情感表达出破碎之美后，这位2015年荣获LVMH集团新锐设计师大赛特别奖的设计师，再次为世人奉出了最具美感与深刻意涵的系列。
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一切都因设计师多年的偶像Christian Lacroix而起，他前往Christian Lacroix的故乡、位于南法的城镇阿尔勒（Arles）朝圣，随后便在场刊中阐述了其中更深一层的内在关联：他的斗牛士叔叔与Lacroix交情甚笃，而他将这一切因缘融入了时装设计的灵感之中，谱写了一段Jacquemus女郎与罗马吉普赛青年之间、如梦似幻的恋曲。
因此，曲线玲珑的青果领与抽象美感的荷叶边出现在传统风格的普罗旺斯连身裙上；而斗牛士长裤则被截短了裤长并提高了腰线。超现实风格的小帽两边翘起，仿佛毕加索笔下弄臣的头饰，但它们点缀服装的方式看起来既有经典风韵，又不失时髦趣味。
Jacquemus2017秋／冬系列
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Lacroix的影响体现在一款极具1980风格的黑白间色波点弧形肩女装衬衫上。同样的膨胀肩部设计还以墨水蓝色的面貌出现在伸展台上，看起来格外有型，风格是泛法式审美中的典型巴黎风情。
历经三十年，Lacroix于1987年谱下的传奇深邃依旧。但Jacquemus令人叹为观止之处在于，其创始人1990年才降生，今年方才27岁便已经找准了吸收Lacroix的高级时装精髓、并将之转化为实穿又评价的成衣作品的法门。
Jacquemus2017秋／冬系列
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Adrian Joffe不但身为Dover Street Market与品牌Comme des Garçons的董事长兼首席执行官，也是一位眼光极其敏锐的新秀支持者。他表示Jacquemus服装的价格合理，足以吸引大批年轻的忠实拥趸。而这场以黑白两色为主却在糖果粉色伸展台上呈现的大秀，更算得上是十全十美。
Jacquemus Autumn/Winter 2017
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Could Parisian chic – that poncey, ladylike look that died somewhere between grunge and sportswear – really be back in fashion?
A trio of designers showing on the opening day of Paris fashion week, presented, each in different ways, a 21st-century French elegance: tidy clothes, fresh looks and a pulled-together style that makes ‘casual’ seem sloppy.
The discreet charm of Olivier Theyskens
Olivier Theyskens Autumn/Winter 2017
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First up was Olivier Theyskens who showed his collection of neat-and-tidy shapes, with a touch of Victorian prudishness in buttoned-up-fastenings, mixed with sweet-young-thing black dresses that recalled his beginnings. Since then, he has been high – as designer for Rochas – and low, when he worked with Theory in America – and has now come through to a perfect positioning.
Olivier Theyskens Autumn/Winter 2017
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Showing against the ornate and colourful background of Le Train Bleu, the historic restaurant at the Paris train station to the South of France, Theyskens said that the plethora of black was to contrast with the surroundings. But surely what he meant was that there is nothing more chic and sexy than a black leather trench sashed close to the body, or an LBD with the thigh-high hemline stopping where the fingertips of elbow length black gloves fall.
Olivier Theyskens Autumn/Winter 2017
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Theyskens is Parisian style incarnate: the insert of black lace into the neckline; neat pointed shoes recalling Catherine Deneuve in her heyday; a judicious use of colour from pine-green, through a dose of bright yellow, to a touch of absinthe. The only thing missing was one of the designer's long evening dresses trailing like cigarette smoke into thin air. But now that he is back on the Paris fashion track, that cannot be far behind.
Olivier Theyskens Autumn/Winter 2017
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Koché: Down-to-earth delicacy
The Folies Bergère – the Parisian musical hall from the days of Édouard Manet paintings and Josephine Baker's banana skirt – seemed an unlikely setting for Koché. The fledgling brand’s identity is poised between street cool and delicate workmanship from designer Christelle Kocher.
Koché Autumn/Winter 2017
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That was manifested, as the models walked down the grand, carpeted stairway, by a puffed-up parka with feathers trapped under a high-tech plasticised cover – just one example of the intersection of street style and couture detailing.
Koché Autumn/Winter 2017
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The choice of a theatre, where women are still performing in few clothes but adorned with arches of feathers, also fits with Kocher's day job as the artistic director of Lemarié, the feather atelier in Chanel's subsidiary of couture accessory companies grouped as Paraffection. Backstage, the designer showed me her first bejewelled shoes, designed by working with other Chanel-owned specialist companies Goossens and Massaro.
“I wanted to contrast the street and the fantastic,” Kocher said.
These young French designers all seem to have an innate understanding of haute couture unhindered by reverential awe. So Kocher, who showed both women's and men's designs, could take a striped sports shirt and pair it with a swish of a silken draped skirt; or a tailored, buttoned up, feather trimmed coat worn with baggy track pants and sneakers.
Koché Autumn/Winter 2017
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The art was in the mix of style and function. And the dramatic set only enhanced the sense that Koché is a brand to watch.
Jacquemus: Profound beauty
Jacquemus is the real thing. Or to be more precise, Simon Porte Jacquemus, the man behind the label, is the incarnation of a French spirit in fashion that could not be found in any other country. From his early stages of broken beauty, with slashed cloth giving a flash of rage to his work, the designer, winner of a special award from the 2015 LVMH talent spotting contest, sent out the most beautiful and meaningful collection.
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It all started with Christian Lacroix, his long-time hero, and a visit to Lacroix county: Arles, in the South of France. Then, as Simon explained in his show notes, a deeper connection: his uncle, who was a toreador, made friends with Lacroix and all these references melded into his fashion inspiration as an impossible love affair between the Jacquemus girl and a gitane, or Roma gypsy.
Hence: curvy shawl colours and abstractions of frills, as worn in the traditional Provençal dress; and matador pants with cropped legs and raised waists. The surreal little hats, curved up at the side, looked like Picasso's harlequin headwear, but the way they topped off the clothes, seemed both classic and modern.
Jacquemus Autumn/Winter 2017
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The influence of Lacroix appeared in a black and white dotted blouse with curvy shoulders from the 1980s. Those same puffed shoulders on the runway in ink blue satin were exceptionally stylish in a manner that was quintessentially Parisian within a broader French aesthetic.
The Lacroix legacy from 1987 – 30 years ago – is still profound. But the wonder of Jacquemus is that the young designer, born three years later and now only 27, has found a way of absorbing the couture spirit and translating it into wearable and price accessible ready-to-wear.
Jacquemus Autumn/Winter 2017
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Adrian Joffe, President and CEO of Dover Street Market and Comme des Garçons and an ardent supporter of off-the-radar talent, says that the pricing of the Jacquemus clothes is reasonable enough to attract an eager young clientele. This show, in black and white but presented on a sugar pink runway, was picture perfect.
