【正文】 rment together. Cockling: Cockling and Bellying mean the same thing. If elastic has a wavy appearance along its length, this is called cockling or bellying. The primary cause is when the individual ends of spandex (rubber) relax or contract more than the majority in the same length of the elastic causing waviness along the top edge. Coin Pocket: Small decorative pocket usually found on bottom garments, usually located inside side pocket. Can be a patch pocket or onseam pocket construction. Collar: No Band Collar With Band Collar Collar Stay: Narrow strip of plastic or metal inserted in point of collar from the underside or is sewn to interlining between layers of collar fabric added to garment to ensure a crisp unwrinkled look. Collarband: See definition for Collarstand Collarstand: Separate shaped piece of fabric that is the full length of garment neckline and is inserted between garment neckline and collar. Used to help shape and fit collar to body and also can be used to close neckline. Color Fast: A term used to determine whether a color „bleeds‟ during laundering. This is normally measured by a grading system 1 – 5. Concealed Zipper: Zipper is set along folded edges of seam line with zipper teeth not visible. Some specific construction methods are center lapped or kissing, side lapped, and invisible. Construction: Processes in order to construct a garment, consists of stitching and/or fusing garment pieces together. Continuous Sleeve Placket: See definition for Placket. Contoured Waistband: See definition for Waistband. Cording: See definition for Piping. Cordlock: A locking device that is typically spring activated and may have 1 or 2 holes. Used to adjust drawcords, etc. Core Thread: Thread formed by spinning a cotton, rayon, or polyester fiber around a continuous filament bundle of fibers giving the thread the advantages of a spun and Filament construction. Course: A crosswise or horizontal row of loops in knitted fabric. Covered Button: See definition for Button. Crackstitched: See definition for StitchintheDitch. Crescent Stand: See definition for Half Moon Stand. Crocking: The transfer of dye stuff from one fabric to another by friction. This problem is usually worse with darker shades. Reds are often a problem in this respect. This is a dyeing problem and can be dealt with in the dye house. Cross Grain Cut: The cutting of a pattern piece perpendicular to the selvedge of the fabric Crotch: Crotch Curve: The bottom of a rise curve. Crotch Depth: The straight distance from crotch to top of waistband in pants, shorts, etc. Crotch Point: The point on the pattern where the front or back rise intersects with the inseam. Curtain Waistband: A method of finishing the waist of a garment that is a separate sewn on facing that hangs below lower seam of waistband made of fabric other than shell that is interfaced/interlined or turned. Cut and Sew (Sweater): Sweater panels are knit to the body length of the largest size, the shape of the neckline, shoulders and armholes are cut out, smaller sizes are cut down. Cut On Placket: See definition for Placket. Cutting: Formation of garment pieces from layers (plies) of fabric by means of a die, laser or knife. Typically done on a long table. D Dart: A sewn wedge or diamond shaped tuck/seam used to make a garment conform to the curves of the body. Delamination: A separation in the bond between the fusible interlining and the piece goods. This can be total separation (total delamination) or partial separation (localized delaminiation). Denier: Weight measurement of yarns. Low numbers represent the finer sizes and the higher numbers represent the coarser/heavier sizes. Also see definition for Elastic Denier Die Cutting: Sharp metal outlines in the shape of pattern pieces used to cut plies of fabric in conjunction with either a click press or die cutting press. Typically used for smaller pattern pieces. Differential Shrinkage: Occurs when the piece goods and the interlining are not moving in sync and will cause distortion in the surface appearance of the garment part. Doghouse Stitch: See definition for Triangle Reinforce Stitch. Double Needle Centered Over Seam: See definition for Centered Over Seam Stitch. Double Turn Hem: See definition for Hem. Double Yoke/ Stylized Yoke: See definition for Yoke. Drape: See definition for Hang. Drawcord: See definition for Drawstring. Drawstring: A narrow string, ribbon, cord, or tube of fabric inserted into a casing and pulled up or tied to create shape and/or hold the garment to the body. Dress Form: See definition for Mannequin. DRing: “D” shaped piece of hardware often used to create an adjustable closure held together by a looped and stitched end of a belt. E Ease: The method of sewing together 2 ponents of varying seam lengths evenly distributing fullness so as not to cause gathers or puckers. See definitions for Tight, Moderate and Generous. Ease Over Body: The amount of room above body measurements needed in a garment to allow adequate movement when worn. Eighth Top Pocket: See definition for Slant Pocket. Elastic Braided: A narrow elastic band, often used as trimmings and bindings. Formed by plating several strands of yards and bare elastomers. Braided elastic usually bees narrowed when elongated. Made on a circular braiding machine. Elastic Denier: The size or thickness of the yarn. Also thickness of spandex (The lower the number the weaker the spandex) Elastic Elastomers: Natural Rubber Thread Elastic Elongation: Stretch – measure 5” relaxed and pull to maximum。 measurement result given in a %. Elastic Ends of Rubber: The number of strands of
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